Degreeing cams, etc

[all-mtr-teg]

Trying to degree some cams, how much do I need to adjust the gears afterwards if the cams are initally degreed with a used OEM HG, but the final build will have a 0.050" thick HG. Therefore, a 0.020" thicker HG will be used.

Block
GSR block
LS crank & rods
ITR copy 82mm pistons

Head
GSR head (unported) 3 angle valve job
RM M22x cams

S2 Pro Series IM
Professional Products 65mm TB
ITR style 3" short ram intake with BPI V-stack and K&N filter
Edelbrock Header 2" collector, stock 2" cat
Kteller 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow 22" long resonator and muffler
Stock Fuel Pump
Stock Prelude 290cc injectors
Stock FPR
Tune on Hondata

[deddth]

where's big tuna when you need him, lol.

[00Red_SiR]

assuming the head hasn't been milled and the block hasn't been decked, retard 1/2 a cam degree. It's negligable especially if you'll be tuning them for best power on the dyno anyway.

[all-mtr-teg]

assuming the head hasn't been milled and the block hasn't been decked, retard 1/2 a cam degree. It's negligable especially if you'll be tuning them for best power on the dyno anyway.

I forgot to mention, the head and block were resurfaced so about .010" was removed, therefore only about .010" thicker HG over stock. I'm trying to get them as close to the cams recommemded specs so less time will be needed on the dyno. So you retard about 1 degree for every .040" thicker HG and advance 1 degree for every 0.040" milled?

[00Red_SiR]

I forgot to mention, the head and block were resurfaced so about .010" was removed, therefore only about .010" thicker HG over stock. I'm trying to get them as close to the cams recommemded specs so less time will be needed on the dyno. So you retard about 1 degree for every .040" thicker HG and advance 1 degree for every 0.040" milled?

You got it. So in your case you're only dealing with a 1/4 cam degree correction. Not enought to worry about if you're tuning on the dyno.

[all-mtr-teg]

You got it. So in your case you're only dealing with a 1/4 cam degree correction. Not enought to worry about if you're tuning on the dyno.

Thanks for the help.

It looks like the EX gear should be set to about +6 and the IN gear at +2, does that sound right?

Anyone else have any cam gear settings for RM M22x cams?

[d112crzy]

Will the car get tuned on the dyno? If so, I always just measure for p2v clearances and go from there. Tune it out on the dyno.

[all-mtr-teg]

Will the car get tuned on the dyno? If so, I always just measure for p2v clearances and go from there. Tune it out on the dyno.

Yeah, it'll be gear tuned at the dyno session, but I just wanted to get the gears close to where they should be so more time can be spent tuning other things.

[FURYOF4]

Yeah, it'll be gear tuned at the dyno session, but I just wanted to get the gears close to where they should be so more time can be spent tuning other things.

That's why I always do it too.

I have no experience with M22's but It seems like they usually make the most power close to 0/0.

[all-mtr-teg]

That's why I always do it too.

I have no experience with M22's but It seems like they usually make the most power close to 0/0.

Is that assuming head and block are stock, unmilled? My setup is pretty much stock deck height, head thickness etc. I think I may be degreeing them wrong cause it looks like peak lift occured at +6 on the EX and about +2 on the intake.

[FURYOF4]

Yes, unmilled head and block. Try doing by open/closed numbers instead of peak lift. That always works better for me.

[00Red_SiR]

Is that assuming head and block are stock, unmilled? My setup is pretty much stock deck height, head thickness etc. I think I may be degreeing them wrong cause it looks like peak lift occured at +6 on the EX and about +2 on the intake.

I'm thinking you should be around 0 Intake to +4 or 5 Ex range for optimal performance with those cams.

[all-mtr-teg]

Yes, unmilled head and block. Try doing by open/closed numbers instead of peak lift. That always works better for me.

Yes sir, that's what Robert suggested, also, I found out I was doing it wrong.

I'm thinking you should be around 0 Intake to +4 or 5 Ex range for optimal performance with those cams.

I'll find out tomorrow at the dyno, got them set to IN = 0 and EX +2 for now just to get me to the dyno.

[Koczeka]

Yes, unmilled head and block. Try doing by open/closed numbers instead of peak lift. That always works better for me.

I suggest him to degree to what Rocket suggest:
LOBE CENTER intake 101 and exhaust 109.

I would be surprised if he end up more than 1 degree diff between intake and exhaust with the 22... RM cams are not those U end up with crazy settings like mentioned, but the opposite.

[all-mtr-teg]

I suggest him to degree to what Rocket suggest:
LOBE CENTER intake 101 and exhaust 109.

I would be surprised if he end up more than 1 degree diff between intake and exhaust with the 22... RM cams are not those U end up with crazy settings like mentioned, but the opposite.

Very intereting dyno session. The build managed to make 191.1 hp on a dynojet through a edelbrock exhaust with stock 2" collector and cat and exhaust, cam gears were IN:+2, EX:0. Looking to do another dyno run in a month or so after I do the 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" high flow cat and 3" exhaust.

[egb18c5]

dont know if it was mentioned before, whats the setup?

[00Red_SiR]

Very intereting dyno session. The build managed to make 191.1 hp on a dynojet through a edelbrock exhaust with stock 2" collector and cat and exhaust, cam gears were IN:+2, EX:0. Looking to do another dyno run in a month or so after I do the 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" high flow cat and 3" exhaust.

This is a good example of how every engine is different and responds differently to different cam settings.

[all-mtr-teg]

dont know if it was mentioned before, whats the setup?

Sorry, I've changed my build plans several times so I probably haven't listed this current one.

Block
GSR block
LS crank & rods
ITR copy 82mm pistons

Head
GSR head (unported) 3 angle valve job
RM M22x cams

S2 Pro Series IM
Professional Products 65mm TB
ITR style 3" short ram intake with BPI V-stack and K&N filter
Edelbrock Header 2" collector, stock 2" cat
Kteller 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow 22" long resonator and muffler
Stock Fuel Pump
Stock Prelude 290cc injectors
Stock FPR
Tune on Hondata

[all-mtr-teg]

This is a good example of how every engine is different and responds differently to different cam settings.

Would the exhaust being retarded in regards to the intake have anything to do with the restriction on the collector and cat? When I open up that bottle neck should I advance the exhaust gear a degree or 2?

[00Red_SiR]

Would the exhaust being retarded in regards to the intake have anything to do with the restriction on the collector and cat? When I open up that bottle neck should I advance the exhaust gear a degree or 2?

I'm thinking that if you open up the exhaust, you may find some gains in advancing the exhaust cam but the dyno will tell. Nice numbers, very similar to mine, did you dyno on a dynojet or a dynapak?

[all-mtr-teg]

I'm thinking that if you open up the exhaust, you may find some gains in advancing the exhaust cam but the dyno will tell. Nice numbers, very similar to mine, did you dyno on a dynojet or a dynapak?

This was on a dynojet, so I believe it would be a bit lower on a dynapak right?
The funny/scary thing is, during the dyno, a kid that was waiting to get his car dyno'ed after mine walked up to the car and almost stepped on the drum while it was still rolling:eek:
Should have seen the look on his face when I grabbed him by the hood and yanked him back

[00Red_SiR]

This was on a dynojet, so I believe it would be a bit lower on a dynapak right?
The funny/scary thing is, during the dyno, a kid that was waiting to get his car dyno'ed after mine walked up to the car and almost stepped on the drum while it was still rolling:eek:
Should have seen the look on his face when I grabbed him by the hood and yanked him back

Should read a little higher on a dynapak typically.

The dynojet that we used here was installed in a custom built trailer so it could be moved around to different events easily. It had a large ramp system built into it that would allow you to drive the car up onto the dyno and had aluminum railings built around the edge to keep you from falling off. Even with a setup like that you'd always get at least one person that was "high on the Darwin eligibility list" that would climb up there and nearly get killed by not paying attention to the rollers. Then you had the people that would crowd close down below, near the rollers/front wheels and nearly get hit from flying rocks from someones wheel tread.